Birthday pictures...

Banana split

Jan and I

Nick and I

My flowers, my wine and my parcel

Nasti and I (birthday shoes)

Chris and I

Me, grinning like a loon when the girls gave me my bracelets :)

I've never seen Mario so happy!

Silje, Bito and I

My presents from Jan, Mario, Nasti and Hanna

Nasti and I

Bitches

Thank you for my lovely present!

My banana split

My flowers from Nick and Chris

My cake

CAKE :)

Birthday celebrations, amongst other things...

A little bit about my lovely, extended birthday celebrations. I’m so happy I got to have a Maputo-style birthday.

On Thursday, after work, I went shoe shopping with Nasti and Hanna. It had somehow been decided that all the girls were going to wear heels on Friday. I wear heels a lot and I was still worried about the potential injuries Maputo’s streets could cause! Nasti had already bought some and I had tried on a million pairs without success; they were either too small (all the ones they sell on the street are really nice, but really small), too expensive (the ones in the shops are insanely priced, one pair, which I doubt were brand new, were marked £106 pounds! Nice, but not that nice), or too impractical (fluorescent pink suede doesn’t really fit with my volunteer’s wardrobe). I finally found some, as did Hanna. They are cheap shoes so I was fairly sure my feet would hurt in all of 5 minutes, but we had already decided that Matt, unbeknownst to him, would carry the bag of flip flops, so it was ok.

In the search for shoes I have noticed a trend in Mozambican vendors; if you try on a shoe and tell them that it’s too small, they will say, ‘No, it’s not too small.’ You can protest all you like, you are wrong. The same goes with clothes, it is not too small or too big, it fits perfectly and nothing you say will change their mind. If you then request a bigger shoe, for example, they will mutter about how it can’t possibly fit when the other one fitted perfectly! I am no longer assured of my shoe size, my dress size, or my ability to tell if something fits, as I am, always, ‘wrong’.

In the evening, Chris, Nick, Jan, Mario, Bito, Silje, Nasti, Kamilah and I went to InterThai for supper. We were 2 men down as Chris had to work late and Matt had to take his sister to the hospital. Silje and Bito bought me a bottle of wine and a gorgeous headband and nail varnishes and Nick and Chris bought me a big bunch of flowers! I made the right choice in sitting next to Chris, who ordered everything! We had Thai prawn green curry, fried rice with beef, prawns (the size of lobsters) in black bean sauce and pad Thai (and a few Captain Morgan and cokes)...and they were all delicious. I then got a birthday banana split...which Mario proceeded to eat most of; I’ve never seen him so happy!

As I’d already been wished ‘happy birthday’ in more languages than ever before, Chris made it his mission to have it wished in even more and through Facebook, managed to wish me happy birthday in at least 10 languages: English, Portuguese, Spanish, Norwegian, Dutch, German, Shangana, Arabic, Afrikaans, Russian, French, Thai, Hindi, Farsi, Nepalese, Turkish and Greek! 

It was a really lovely meal and the perfect end to a brilliant birthday. The most amazing thing was, the package which had Mum sent on Tuesday, with birthday cards, presents and sweets, arrived on Thursday, on my birthday!

I re-arranged the spa from Friday to Monday, as I knew that I would be stressed about organising the flat for the party and wouldn’t be able to enjoy it. So I spent the morning tidying the flat, and the afternoon, mentally preparing myself...

Nick was an absolute hero and as well as making all the food and my amazing cake, brought a table, so unlike at Mario’s; we didn’t have to eat off the floor. The food was so good! We had samosas, spring rolls, crab tartlets, cheese balls, Asian chicken rolls and a chocolate cake with chocolate dipped strawberries (Pictures to come) Thank you Nick!

It was great; the flat looked far less like a crack den than usual, with balloons and the food and mats laid down, we had music, courtesy of Jan and it was such a random but good mix of people, which is exactly what I wanted.

I got such lovely presents as well. Jan, Mario, Hanna and Nasti bought me an amazing wooden box, compartmented inside so I can keep jewellery in it and a beautiful carved tortoise, with the Big 5 painted on its back. Jennifer bought me a rose and a chicken ball (I can’t remember the Brazilian name); they are the best things in the world (well, one of) and my favourite snack. Matt bought me a really nice capulana. It turned out that the bracelets I had wanted to buy in the art market, which the girls told me had been sold, hadn’t and had in fact been bought by Gabby, Lea and Anjuli for my birthday. (Pictures to follow of me smiling like a loon) Thank you all of you!

The only downside of the night was that I felt really poorly. I hadn’t felt well in the afternoon but was determined to get on with it, potentially a mistake! I woke up on Saturday and felt like I had been run over. I had a 38.2^oC temp and sweaty doesn’t even describe it, especially as on Sunday it was 42^oC outside! Luckily I think it was just flu and although I felt horrible on Sunday and Monday, I feel better today. However, it’s getting steadily hotter and I fully expect to now sweat continuously for the next 7 weeks! I will embrace it as much as possible and everyone else better get used to it!

I finally bug sprayed my room yesterday. Last week a cockroach had run over my leg whilst I was sitting on my bed, nearly giving me a heart attack. I thought, at least, that I would be safe under my mosquito net, but no, on Saturday night, a cockroach got into my bed and crawled over my pillow. Chasing it around the room with a flip flop did nothing to help my fever! I was paranoid that another one would get in on Sunday as I could hear them scuttling around. As I said, the bug spray could kill a horse, so after spraying, when Vovo told me ‘to shut the door, or nothing would be killed’, I refused as the can said to let the room air. She shut the door anyway, and the windows, and so my room now probably resembles some kind of gas chamber...I can’t wait to sleep in there tonight!

I think I may be going to a Mozambican wedding reception this weekend which is exciting. Not having an extended family means that Nasti and I miss out on the family parties, birthdays, baptism etc.

My friend George, who is on my course at Uni, was supposed to be coming out for 3 months in November but is no longer coming which is a shame! I was looking forward to having someone to show around Maputo and someone to reminisce with when I got home!

I am off to Johannesburg next weekend which I am really excited about. I need to renew my visa on the way back...not sure how I go about that, but I’m working on it!

I will try and put up some birthday pictures, when I can get near a good internet connection!

Some of the children at the Infantario...

These make me smile so much...I love them all! I will add more but it takes a while...

Some music for you...

Maria Gadu - Shimbalaie - this is one of my new Brazilian songs

UPular remix - this makes me happy :)

A random mix...

My new favourite drink (It has 47% of your recommended daily sugar allowance and it's delicious)

 The 4th animal, which, as of last night, now also lives in our bathroom!

 My birthday breakfast!

 My birthday card from Nasti

 My 23rd birthday breakfast

 My capulana dress

 My capulana shorts

 Nasti, the true Mozambican, takes her rubbish on the chapa

Vovo with her birthday capulana

The inspiration for my shorts

Nick = Hash Shit

Bilene and birthday time...

Week 10 -

I had a great Hash weekend. Bilene is beautiful and it was nice to get out of the city. Our chalet was almost on the beach and as it’s a lagoon, the water is shallow, blue, warm and perfect!

We had dinner on the Friday in the restaurant and then stayed in the bar for the remainder of the evening. The Hash on Saturday, with a combination of hills, swamps and sand dunes and 30⁰degree heat was a struggle, as we all felt a little fragile. I am used to people trying to sell me fairly useless items but it made my day when a man tried to sell me, in his words, “a tiny handbag”. He was not wrong, it was a ‘handbag’ the size of a phone, made from a palm leaf. He was offended when I asked him; why on earth I would need such a thing. He said that lots of people buy them and they are both attractive and practical. I then thought to myself, maybe I do need one, perhaps this is what I need to make my life complete...I think I had a touch of sunstroke. We took a boat trip across the lagoon and it was like being on a Rag Raid; beer and outrageous songs, but as I have said before, a slighter older crowd! Saturday evening was good fun as lots of the Peace Corps guys were there, which was nice. 

I have decided that I will live in a beach hut in Bilene at some point in the future and sell ice creams. If my only competition is tiny palm leaf handbags, I think I could make a roaring trade. 

I hadn’t felt at all well last week and it was rather a low point for me. Maputo felt that little bit too hectic and I wanted just a week at home. My glands were swollen and I was constantly exhausted. Thankfully I feel better this week but am still overdosing on Vitamin C and oranges in the hope that it will keep me healthy.  

I also felt slightly insane last week. I think I need to keep busy and also go to the gym more often! I’ve also decided that whatever people say, I don’t like having time on my own or having time to be self-reflective, it just makes me a little crazy. I am a do-er not a think-er and I like to be busy and surrounded by people. I have come to Africa and discovered what I always knew! 

Vovo came home on Sunday, after a month away! I didn’t realise how much I’d missed her. Her birthday was while she was away, and in true Vovo style, she reminded us of this and said “So where are my presents?” She is too rude but you have to laugh as she doesn’t mean to be! We bought her a capulana, some nail varnish, as we all paint our nails together every Saturday, a case for her phone and some earrings. She cried when we gave them to her and then sang, as she was so happy. I love her! She seems much sprightlier after her operation and keeps apologising for being away for so long. 

Last night, was one of the best nights so far! Simply, we had delicious food, hot water, today is a holiday and we didn’t have to stay up and watch soaps with Vovo. When her son is here we turn the hot water on and we have really good food; chicken breast as opposed to chicken god only knows what, cheese, real butter and sandwiches for breakfast! It sounds silly but it really is the simple things that make you happy!

Nasti is happy, as for 9 months, she has lived with ‘2 animals’ in the shower; a worm and a grasshopper of some kind. Despite washing them down the plughole numerous times, they always came back. This week, a spider joined the group and it became too much. I caught them in a cup and took them outside and made her day! Crazy German. 

Today is another public holiday! I love this country. Everything and anything can result in a holiday. They always seem surprised that England doesn’t have more and have come to the conclusion that it’s because ‘it’s too cold for holidays’. 

It’s my birthday tomorrow! If you had asked me, a few years ago, where I thought I would be spending my 23^rd birthday, I don’t think I would have said Maputo! I am going out for dinner tomorrow evening with 11 friends, to the Thai restaurant in the city. I am very excited for Friday because, as birthday presents are unlikely to arrive, Mum and James have bought me spa treatments instead! I know, it’s very unvolunteer-y but it will be nice to feel truly clean, even for a few hours. The sad thing is, I will step outside, onto a chapa and be dusty and dirty again! On Friday evening, we are having a party in the city and going out. Jan is in charge of the Tipo Tinto supplies and Nick is in charge of the food; cheese balls, samosas, spring rolls, brigaderos. I’m actually really happy that I get to have a birthday here. It will be such a mixed group but all my friends so I can’t wait. I will take lots of pictures.

Bits and bobs...

Again, this blog is going back a week:

Week 9 -

Marsol, one of the children at work, had been ill on Friday and by Monday, she had gotten much worse! She was really dehydrated from vomiting and her eyes were sunken and she was lifeless. She is normally so energetic and never stops laughing and smiling so it’s horrible to see. When the children are very ill they send them to the hospital but they often come back sicker and they have to visit everyday as the care is terrible, so it’s often more trouble than it’s worth. 

Tues and Thursday were both really good days at work. I now have 4/5 core students and they love learning English, especially when it’s something not commonly used in Mozambique, as they say that ‘most people’ won’t be able to understand them when they use it, which makes them happy! Even when I think it’s not going that well, they always tell me it was the best lesson yet. I love getting them to come up with their own examples of the grammar we have been using, they are always hilariously random. When I told them it was my birthday next Thursday they all cheered and said we will have a festa with bejias, and samosas and refrescos and a cake! 

On Tuesday, Nasti and I had the best lunch in Maputo, at Cafe Continental. The cheese toasty had real cheese, the drinks were bought before the food, the food came in under 10 minutes, the waiters were friendly, there was real ketchup and the loos are the best I’ve seen! We are so easily pleased!

By Wednesday, the tailor in Matola had made my capulana shorts. They looked great but they needed adjusting. He promised me they would be ready in time for Bilene on Friday! He’s also in the process of making me a capulana dress and altering two dresses which I bought last week. 

I hadn’t been to dance class for a few weeks but I went yesterday and it was good to see everyone and it was good fun, although still, such hard work! Silje helps me a lot though; she’s a dance teacher in Norway and is on a dance exchange programme so she’s a pro. We are going to showcase our moves at Macaneta (club) next Friday.

I got some new music from Tibério, at ACOORD. I now have music from Brazil, Cape Verde, Portugal, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Guinea Bissau, Sao Tome and Angola, (I will post links to some of my favourites) so I now have a highly multicultural iPod. He also had lots of English/American music...all named wrongly. I have James Blant, Tracy Champion, Marron 5 and my favourite, by Michael Jackson, Billy Jeans. 

On Thursday, I finally swept all the dead cockroaches out of my room. I’m not sure what’s killing them! I need to buy some bug spray, as I can hear them scuttling around at night, but the bug spray they use here could kill a horse and as my room is rather small, I’m a little worried about ‘fogging’ myself in the process. 

When I went to work on Friday, before I left for Bilene, Marsol was, thankfully, a little better.

The tailor, Domingo, is my new best friend. By Friday lunchtime, after my 3^rd visit to remind him that I needed my shorts by 1pm, he had finished 2 out of the 3 pairs, made my capulana dress and altered the other two. (Pictures to follow) I love them! He’s also going to make me a satchel out of the remaining dress material and next week he will make Ele’s trousers and possibly another dress for me. 

Friday was actually a good day all round, as one of my parcels arrived too! Nasti and I spent Sunday afternoon reading Heat and Closer and eating Chocolate Buttons! Now I’m just waiting for the grammar books to arrive!

Half way through...

This blog is going back a few weeks...I am trying to catch up with myself as I haven’t posted one in so long:

Week 8 -

I am now just over half way through my time in Mozambique! I know I keep saying it, but it really has gone so quickly.  

I arrived at the ACOORD office on Thursday at 8.30am to find that it was locked. Not a huge problem as it gave me more time to prepare my lesson, ‘expressing ability with Be able to’. By 10, when I should be starting to teach, the office was still locked, so I translated Tiberio’s CV for him. At around 11, everyone suddenly left. As I wasn’t sure where they’d gone, I stayed, until 12ish when the office was finally unlocked. Celeste then told me that they didn’t want a lesson today. This has become really normal for me. I love the ACOORD office. It is so ‘Mozambican’ it’s untrue. As they have no money at the moment, it’s only really Calisto that seems to have much to do. They all do work hard but also Amelia plays Pacman, Celeste naps and Tibério plays music which I sing to and Benilda, I’m not sure what her distraction is but she must have one. 

Nick and I had Museu burgers for lunch and had the pleasure of being serenaded by Aunty Sarah. Aunty Sarah was from Swaziland and a HUGE fan of the British and came over to our table as she heard us speaking English. She was about 60, wore a yellow football shirt and had a delightful curly wig. She invited us to pop in and visit anytime; she lives opposite Hotel Cardoso. When she found out that I lived in Opica, she was even more excited as she knew ‘someone that had lived there, but had died several years ago’, “Did I know him?” Sadly I didn’t. She told us she was a singer and asked if she could play us a song...she proceeded to play us a mean tune on the harmonica! The empty glass in her hand didn’t detract from the fact she seemed genuinely delighted to have found a British person.

I threw myself into chores for the rest of the day, which although not hugely important, help to make me feel that on days like that, that I am achieving something! It helps me as sometimes there are days when I feel like I am going backwards. I need a routine and to be busy or I become exhausted and lethargic and struggle to do anything! 

I also finally joined the gym on Thursday! The first time I looked around, everything seemed to work. On closer inspection, that wasn’t quite the case. There are 4 running machines, yet only 3 seemed to be working. I then realised that this is because there are only 3 plug sockets and so the 4^th can’t be plugged in! Some of the bikes don’t have pedals and the rowing machine rocks back and forth as you row. Of course, there is no air conditioning, but there are conveniently placed holes in the walls. Despite all of this, in true Mozambican fashion...the front door has a finger print scanner! The door may always be open and in fact, have panes of glass missing, but still, before you can enter, you must scan your fingerprint! 

On Friday, I went to the Art Market with Lea, Anjuli and Gabby. I was haggling with a man over some bracelets, which were overpriced, as it’s the touristy area. I walked off eventually as I had to leave, and then decided I did really want them, but when the girls went back for me, he’d sold them. This has happened with various handbags and shoes that I’ve seen on the street, so I have come to the conclusion, if you want it, buy it! I did, however, buy the ‘fish’ capulana which I have wanted for ages. I think I will make it into a dress.

We went to Teacher’s bar on Friday eve which is great as a pint is only 0.65p and it’s not too busy. I also had my first Mozambican KFC; Spinkle Pops (Popcorn chicken) and fries, which come with chilli salt! We went to the Hash on Saturday and to our delight (I have never seen Chris so happy), not only did Nick have to long-arm his pint; he was also chosen as Hash Shit. (Pictures to follow)